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Cool Materials: Harris Tweed
Posted by: D. Cane on 20th Dec 2010 in Opinion




What do Vic Reeves, Miss Marple and Doctor Who have in common? They are all big fans of Harris Tweed.
Slightly older that its Irish competitor Magee, Harris Tweed has been handmade in the Scottish Hebrides since before Queen Victoria's time. The textile we might most readily associate with British gents and game hunting attire has had as many identities as it has uses, but in the case of the Harris product, has been woven in the same place and in pretty much the same way for the last 150 years.

Nowadays, the first stages of the process are on a large scale, and mechanised. The raw wool is washed, dyed, spun and carded in a mill, before being sent away for weaving. But this must happen on one of only four Hebridean islands, and is still done by hand in the weavers' own homes on pedalled machines. It is here that the distinctive pattern of each tweed will materialise. There are now just a handful to choose from, but at its height there were 8000 different designs.
After returning to the factory for felting and cropping, the length is examined by the Harris Tweed inspectors. The specific requirements that certify the material were subject to an Act of Parliament in 1993 to ensure the quality and value of the product. This was just one of many legal processes during the 20th century that continue to protect the material from imitators.
In a saturated global economy where Asda can now sell jeans for just £2 a pair, Harris Tweed epitomises a sustainable, high-craft British industry. All the wool used must be virgin and is selected only from either Blackface, or the slightly cuddlier-looking Cheviot sheep; both of which are also eventually used for meat.
The dyes originally used in Harris were derived locally from lichens, giving it it’s familiar palette of natural, earthy tones; perfect camouflage for the game hunters, keepers and outdoor people who wear it to this day.
More recently it has been adopted by big brands and high-fashion houses alike. It is now used in the US by the likes of Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, and at home the Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood studios are both fans (spot the striking similarity between Westwood’s and Harris Tweed’s brand logos)
If these names are out of your budget, or deer stalkers and and shot guns don’t suit your look, it works on the street too. Nike have been releasing limited edition footwear in Harris Tweed for the last few years. Fittingly they have chosen some of their retro styles including Dunks, Air Force 1s and high-top Terminators.
To find out more about ‘the champagne of fabrics,’ here is the Harris Tweed Authority website. Alternatively, get up there for hogmanay and see for yourself…

top images
Nike Dunk Low with Harris Tweed detail
The iconic Harris Tweed label

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Weaver Donald John Mackay. Image: Harris Tweed Authority
Nike Air Royalty with Harris Tweed upper